Immersion into the Soul of Contemporary Benin

Cotonou : Between Heritage and Innovation
From the moment I arrived at the airport, my stay in Cotonou started on a discordant note. My luggage, misplaced somewhere between Geneva and Cotonou, was nowhere to be found. A mishap that I hoped wouldn't set the tone for the rest of this short four-day trip. A chance encounter with Brice, whom I hadn’t seen in years, turned out to be providential. He introduced me to Djamal, the founder of Rosyne club, a local brand I wasn’t familiar with (yes, I don’t know every African brand). This serendipitous introduction turned into a true wardrobe blessing for the remainder of my stay.

Unfortunately, my enthusiasm dimmed a little when I entered my room at the brand-new Sofitel. I was immediately transported to Paris. Despite the pleasant facilities, attentive service, and the many convenient closets for storing my few belongings (thank you, Air France), the hotel seemed to have missed an opportunity to tell a story rooted in African refinement. From the room décor to the common areas, there was a standardized approach to luxury that could be found anywhere in the world. This approach contrasts sharply with recent achievements by architects and designers endowed with a rare ability to interpret African tradition elegantly. As demonstrated by Francis Kéré, the Pritzker Prize laureate, in collaboration with Nachson Mimran, it is possible to create luxurious spaces while preserving a strong African identity. Their Swiss chalet project, imbued with a deeply African soul, proves that excellence in interior design can align with cultural authenticity.

Why not imagine a Sofitel that showcases locally crafted wooden furniture, Beninese cotton curtains woven by Mandjaques, and room numbers in bronze from Burkinabe foundries? Collaborating with local creators to tell a unique story would not only be an added value for the hotel but also a gesture of respect for Beninese and African identity.

Collaborating with local creators to tell a unique story would not only be an added value for the hotel but also a gesture of respect for Beninese and African identity.

African Chalet Gstaad © Cassie Floto Warner

This experience rekindled a question that lingers in my daily life about how luxury is interpreted and presented on the continent. Shouldn’t we rethink our approach to luxury in Africa ? Or even define it? Inspired by brilliant examples like those of Francis Kéré, we have proof that refinement can coexist with cultural grounding. Sadly, I didn’t get the chance to dine at Chef Georgina Viou’s VIVO restaurant. This experience might have nuanced my impressions, and I hope it will evolve my perspective and enrich my experience in the future.

This disappointment quickly faded as I was immersed in the vibrant atmosphere of Ouidah’s new arena. There, the Egungun dancers put on a mesmerizing performance. Their dazzling costumes swirled in the air, creating a kaleidoscope of colors and movement. These guardians of Vodun traditions transcend time, connecting the past to the present and beyond in an enchanting dance. I felt privileged to witness this cultural manifestation so deeply rooted in the soul of Benin.

© Benin Republic

My journey then led me to the Claudine Talon Foundation, where I was overjoyed to discover new works by Moufouli Bello. An artist who continues to surprise me with the power of her strokes and the depth of her themes. Her paintings, true windows into the African soul, resonate with me with renewed intensity.

The visit to Sèmè City was a revelation.
This innovation hub embodies Benin’s modern entrepreneurial and creative spirit. The maker lab, in particular, buzzes with bold ideas and projects. The future museums in development promise to redefine the cultural narrative of the country. I was impressed by this ambition to blend heritage with innovation, tradition with avant-garde.

This brief trip would not have been as rich without the invaluable help of Karl and Raodath, founder of Entourage.africa. Thanks to their connections and network, I was able to forge ties with local cultural actors and institutions. Raodath’s approach goes even further, facilitating access to top-tier experts on the continent. It is precisely this type of initiative that embodies the Africa I love: dynamic, connected, and forward-looking while remaining deeply rooted in its heritage.

© Nelly Wandji

It was with relief and a renewed wardrobe that I learned, shortly before my departure for Lagos, that my suitcase had finally arrived. As I left Cotonou, I was torn between wonder and frustration. Wonder at the cultural vitality and spirit of innovation that animate the city. Frustration and reflection over the opportunities sometimes seized, sometimes missed, to fully celebrate this unique Beninese identity. My lost and found luggage ultimately became an apt metaphor for this trip: perhaps symbolizing the quest for balance. Like it, the soul of contemporary Africa oscillates between tradition and modernity, waiting to be fully recognized and valued in all its complexity.

One thing is certain: it will take several more trips to discover Benin’s exceptional ateliers. I have already done my scouting, for my next trip, I will not fail to understand the teams behind these brands which rethink creation by anchoring themselves in traditions such as Vognon, vestiare original and Bakus oraya