Raffia Reimagined – How five brands are redefining fashion with Heritage and Innovation

The timeless allure of Raffia

In the world of fashion, few materials carry the weight of history and culture quite like raffia : the humble yet extraordinary fiber from the raffia palm, has been woven into the cultural fabric of African heritage—adorning ceremonial attire from Benin to Cameroon, and masquerade costumes from Burkina Faso or Nigeria.

For too long, raphia—and fashion in Africa as a whole—has been boxed into clichés: “folklore”, “tribal,” or “ethnic”. Yet, in the hands of a new generation of designers, raphia is flipping the script. No longer confined to tradition only, it is becoming a symbol of innovation, authenticity, and relevance. They’re taking raphia out of the past and placing it firmly in the present, proving that this century-old material from hearth can be modern, luxurious, and globally relevant. Brands such as Imane Ayissi, AAKS, Zyne, POK POK, and Éki Kéré are leading the charge, blending tradition with innovation to create pieces that are as culturally rich as they are contemporary.

Left & middle © Carol Beckwith and Angela Fisher - Raffia Harvest Mask, Burkina Faso, 2014 I Middle Raffia Animal Mask, Burkina Faso, 2014 I Right Vodun Days - Traditional dancers at Vodun Days 2025

As someone who has had the privilege to collaborate and introduce these designers to global audiences both online and offline, I’ve witnessed the power of their work firsthand. Their creations are not just garments or accessories; they are stories—stories that resonate deeply with a world hungry for meaning and connection.

Let me take you through the experiences of working with these visionary designers and the global reactions they’ve inspired before reflecting on why a strong point of view in fashion is more vital than ever, especially today.

1. Imane Ayissi (Cameroon) – The Couturier of Culture

Imane Ayissi is a name that resonates in the halls of Parisian haute couture, yet his heart remains firmly rooted in Cameroon. A master of blending tradition with modernity, Ayissi has made raphia a signature in his collections. He takes the fiber—often associated with rustic craftsmanship—and transforms it into haute couture magic. Imagine raphia intricately woven into geometric patterns, paired with flowing silk or structured satin. The result? Pieces that are both deeply African and universally stunning.

Prior to his exhibition in Atlanta in 2024, I presented Ayissi’s work to a small crowd of fashion enthusiasts in Pittsburg with the support of Demeatria Boccella in 2023, the atmosphere was electric. The intricate craftsmanship, the fusion of textures, and the storytelling behind each piece left audiences in awe. It was clear that Ayissi was not just creating fashion—he was creating art and rewriting the narrative. By showcasing raphia on international runways, he’s challenging the world to see Africa and fashion through a new lens—one that’s sophisticated, innovative, and undeniably chic. His work is a love letter to African heritage, proving that tradition can walk hand-in-hand with modernity. It is no surprise that Imane Ayissi is the first and the only maison with African heritage officially invited by the french Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode to present his collections during Paris Haute couture week since 2020.

© Fabrice Malard for Imane Ayissi

2. AAKS (Ghana) – The Art of the Everyday

When Akosua Afriyie-Kumi founded AAKS, she had a vision: to bring the beauty of Ghanaian craftsmanship to the world. Her medium ? Raffia. AAKS’s handwoven bags are a celebration of color, texture, and artistry. Each piece is crafted by local artisans, dyed in vibrant hues, and woven into designs that feel both timeless and fresh.

Introducing AAKS to global consumers in Paris was a revelation. The bags, with their bold hues and intricate patterns, immediately captured attention. Yet it was the story behind them—the dedication to craftsmanship, the commitment to sustainability—that truly resonated with the educated consumer. AAKS is not just a brand; it’s a movement. AAKS is proof that raffia can be more than just a ceremonial material—it can be part of your everyday wardrobe. By creating delicate accessories that are as functional as they are beautiful, Afriyie-Kumi is breaking down stereotypes and showing the world that cultural innovation is possible in the African context and that fashion from Africa is not just for special occasions. It’s for life, like an heritage that can be passed down.

3. Zyne (Morocco) – Where Tradition Meets Modernity

Zyne, the brainchild of Zineb Britel and Laura Pujol, is redefining what it means to wear your heritage. The brand’s luxurious babouche slippers are a masterclass in blending tradition with contemporary design. Raphia plays a starring role, often used in intricate embroidery that adds texture and depth to each pair.

When I first showcased Zyne’s collections at my eponymous cabinet de curiosités, the response was unanimous: Annick, a former executive from Hermès, told me “these are gorgeous, these pieces transcend trends”. The slippers, with their intricate raffia details, spoke to a universal desire for elegance and authenticity. Zyne is a reminder that fashion doesn’t have to shout to be heard. Their maximalist, elegant designs speak volumes, showcasing the versatility of raphia and the richness of Moroccan craftsmanship. It’s a quiet revolution, one slipper at a time.

4. POK POK (Madagascar) – Playful, bold, and unapologetically African

Fitia & Andrianina Randriamifidimanana’s POK POK, based in Madagascar, is a burst of joy in the fashion world. The brand’s accessories are a riot of texture in monochrome, with raffia taking center stage. Think, statement clutches, and bags that are as playful as they are polished.

Introducing POK POK to our community online was right during COVID-19 and an unforgettable experience. The brand’s vibrant energy and commitment to craftsmanship were infectious. It was clear that POK POK was not just creating accessories—it was creating a mood, a feeling, a way of life that has blossomed into a beautiful heritage brand deeply anchored in the Malagasy tradition of harvesting, treating and weaving raphia.

POK POK is here to remind us that fashion should be fun. By using raffia in unexpected ways, Fitia & Andrianina are challenging the idea that tradition has to be serious when it can be really fun and elegant. Their designs are a celebration of creativity, proving that heritage can be vibrant, bold, and full of life.

5. Éki Kéré (Nigeria) – The Quiet Power of Simplicity

Founded by Abasiekemeh Ukarineh, Éki Kéré is a Nigerian fashion brand that has mastered the art of understated elegance. Known for its easy-going silhouettes blending raffia and prints, the brand often incorporates raffia in its purest form, allowing the material’s natural texture and warmth to shine. The clothes, with their clean lines and focus on natural materials, are always a hit. When I wear an Éki Kéré piece, I can see the reaction, it is clear that Éki Kéré has tapped into something universal: the desire for authenticity and sophistication. Éki Kéré is proof that less is more. By focusing on clean lines and understated elegance, Ukarineh challenges the stereotype of African fashion as overly ornate or traditional. Her work is a masterclass in subtlety, showing that raffia can be as sophisticated as any luxury material.

A new chapter for African Heritage

In fashion, as in life, a strong point of view is everything. It’s what sets innovators apart, what makes their work unforgettable. For designers such as Imane Ayissi, Akosual Afriye Kumi, Zineb Britel at Zyne, Fitia Randriamifidimanana at POK POK, and Abakieseme Ukarineh at Éki Kéré, that point of view is rooted in heritage. What they are doing is nothing short of revolutionary. They’re taking raffia—a material steeped in history—and reimagining it for a new generation. They’re proving that fashion from an African heritage perspective isn’t a monolith; it’s a dynamic, evolving force that can inspire the world.

For global consumers, this is a revelation.

In a world that often feels disconnected, these designers offer a sense of connection—to culture, to craftsmanship, to something greater than oneself. And that is the true power of fashion: not just to adorn, but to assert our personality and inspire.

© Yagazie Emezi for Éki Kéré

These designers are more than just creators; they’re storytellers, cultural ambassadors, and innovators. Through their work, they’re shifting the narrative, showing that fashion in Africa is not just about tradition but weaving the future.

As we look to the future, one thing is clear: the designers who dare to explore their heritage, and tell their stories with conviction, are the ones who will shape the future of fashion. And with raffia as their muse, the possibilities are endless.

So the next time you see a raffia bag, embroidered slippers, or couture gown, remember: this isn’t just fashion; it’s a revolution.