Shein's greenwashing and Africa's Creative Future : the Fast Fashion dilemma
Since 2014 that I have been on this journey, I have long advocated for the potential of Africa's creative industry to support local communities and showcase the continent's rich creativity. Recent events, including Shein's establishment of a $5.3 million foundation and the devastating fire at Ghana's Kantamanto Market, have brought the challenges facing African fashion into sharp focus.
Shein's greenwashing and Africa's true needs
Shein's creation of the SHEIN Foundation, ostensibly to address textile waste in Africa, raises serious concerns about greenwashing. As an advocate for African fashion, I see this move as a distraction from the real issues. What Africa's creative sector truly needs is not to be a pawn in a global fast fashion strategy, but access to better knowledge and infrastructure to build a sustainable, locally-driven industry. Viola Wohlgemuth of Greenpeace Germany echoes this sentiment: "In these times of climate emergency and biodiversity crisis, Shein's business model is taking us even further in the wrong direction." This criticism aligns with my vision for an African fashion ecosystem that prioritizes sustainability and local empowerment.
The Kantamanto market fire was a wake-up call
The recent fire at Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, destroying 60% of one of the world's largest secondhand clothing markets, serves as a stark reminder of the vulnerabilities in our current system. Liz Ricketts of The Or Foundation highlighted that "The Kantamanto community spends over $300 million on bales every year, over half of which is paid to the Global North exporters." This tragedy underscores the urgent need for a shift towards a more sustainable and locally-driven fashion industry in Africa.
Why throwing money isn't the solution ? I believe that simply throwing money at the problem, as Shein is attempting to do, doesn't address the root causes. I mean we have seen this kind of “aid to development” distracts from the fact that those who give from the front door to aid Africa’s development are actually taking more from the back door in like interests on loans that most Africans might never be able to pay since they do not print their own currency(let me not digress here, this is a conversation for another day).
What African creatives on the continent actually need is :
Investment in local talent and infrastructure
Education and training for African designers and artisans
Support for sustainable and ethical production methods
Promotion of African design on the global stage
Policies to protect local markets, Kako Nubukpo, the togolese economist calls it “ecological protectionism”.
Kako Nubukpo's theory of protectionism can be summarized as a need for Africa to adopt, a form of "fair trade" that opposes neoliberalism, in order to protect its local markets, enable transformation local raw materials and respond to the challenges of extractivism and globalization, while promoting a third way based on the “theory of the commons”. These initiatives would do far more to build a resilient and thriving African fashion industry than any amount of charitable donations from fast fashion giants.
Shein's entry into African markets from any angle, retail and philanthropy poses significant challenges to local fashion ecosystems period. In my wildest daydreams, I envision an Africa where :
Local industries thrive, creating jobs and economic growth
Traditional crafts and cultural authentic signature are preserved and celebrated
African designers lead in sustainable and innovative fashion practices (this one is already a reality)
Profits from African fashion remain within the continent, supporting local communities (baby steps, coming into reality)
Lexy Silverstein's bold statement, "I'd rather be naked than wear Shein," resonates with our mission at MoonLook. We believe in empowering consumers to make ethical choices that support local industries. Dominique Muller of Amnesty International UK warns that rewarding Shein's methods "would be a badge of shame for the London Stock Exchange." This aligns with our belief that financial institutions should prioritize ethical and sustainable practices in the fashion industry. But who are we kidding ? Capitalism to its extreme just became the only way America understand becoming great again. It is truely exhausting to swim against the tide but I am an optimist and i trust the people are conscious of the insignificance of a small groups of individuals against the people.
The right governments need to support and empowerment at local levels. When will African governments take proactive measures, similar to Rwanda's ban on second-hand clothing imports. Such policies can:
Protect and nurture local fashion industries
Promote sustainability and reduce waste
Preserve cultural heritage in fashion and beyond
Boost economic development within African communities
Genuine sustainability and African leadership in the fashion industry, led by African voices and talent means :
Support for local production and growth of local markets
Investment in education and training for African creatives on the continent by the continent
Promotion of African creatives on the continent and everywhere else
Development of circular economy initiatives within Africa
As Paul Foulkes-Arellano aptly puts it, "Unless a brand uses more deadstock than virgin materials, its pollution will never abate." Yet we believe Africa can lead the way in sustainable fashion practices not by being locked in the recycling loop. And effort of experts such as Zara Odu in Lagos toward circularity with Designer Consociate give me hope.
The challenges faced by the African fashion industry, from the Kantamanto fire to the encroachment of fast fashion giants like Shein, are significant. However, I see these challenges as opportunities for transformation. I am not the only one, other entrepreneurs also envision an African fashion industry that is not a dumping ground for global waste or a market for exploitative fast fashion, but a vibrant, sustainable ecosystem that supports local communities, preserves cultural heritage, and leads in innovative, ethical practices.
The path forward is not through token donations or greenwashing initiatives, but through genuine investment in Africa's creative talent, infrastructure, and sustainable practices. By prioritizing knowledge-sharing, skill development, and local empowerment, we can build a fashion industry that truly serves Africa and sets a new standard for the global fashion world.
As we collectively continue to advocate for this vision, we call on consumers, policymakers, and industry leaders to join us in supporting a fashion future that respects both people and the planet - as Eki Kéré the emerging brand from Lagos with biodegradable fabrics remind us - with Africa at the forefront of this positive change.
© cover picture - Eki Kéré by Yagazie Emezi