The dawn of a new era for Africa’s creative economy 1/2
The past decade has witnessed an unprecedented surge in the global recognition of African artists and creatives, both from the continent and its diaspora. This creative wave, amplified by social media, has washed over the world, presenting a vibrant and dynamic vision of Africa's rich cultural tapestry. As we stand at the threshold of a new era for moonlook.africa, it's crucial to examine the lessons learned from successful African brands and apply them to our mission of building relevant brands, elevating heritage, empowering communities, and enabling prosperity.
Africans have long demonstrated an exceptional ability to transform challenges into opportunities for growth and innovation. The COVID-19 pandemic, while devastating, has served as a catalyst for change, highlighting the urgent need for the African creative scene to strengthen its ecosystems and create a more efficient value chain that attracts talent and investment.
These challenges have also guided us toward the shift we finally confirmed in our new approach.
Collaborating with nearly 150 brands and creatives over different categories has not only allowed us to contribute to generate revenues for the creatives but also to learn and become who we are today. Yes this journey has transformed us and taught us invaluable lessons that we have incorporated into the foundation of the organization we want to build for the future.
1. FUNDAMENTALS LESSONS LEARNED
Cultural Innovation : The AAKS Story
In our very firsts pop-up in 2015 a lot of our then clients discovered in France for the first time a new aesthetic for natural fibers : vibrant colors, original shapes and refined finishing touches.
A vision and approach to design that Akosua Afriyie-Kumi have maintained for the last 10 years and that has propelled AAKS to its today status of the most loved accessory brand in my personal collection. All bags are made in Ghana by local female artisans, preserving ancestral craftsmanship while creating and consolidating sustainable employment opportunities.
In this past decade AAKS has validated the cultural innovation theory by successfully modernizing traditional bolgatanga’s weaving techniques to create globally recognizable accessories.
Key lesson
Modernizing traditional craftsmanship while maintaining ethical production practices is the essence of cultural innovation that creates both social impact and international market appeal.
© AAKS collection SS24
Heritage is luxury : The ZYNE Success
Laura Pujol and Zineb Britel were introduced to me by Mehdi Benosman who with Alice - his now wife - were exploring the development of an accessory brand modernizing the Killim. In his text message Mehdi said : “Nelly, you are going to love this new find”.
Next thing I knew, I was inviting Zyne to the first pop up in Paris. This moroccan luxury footwear brand, has successfully reimagined traditional babouche slippers for the modern luxury market. The brand combines centuries-old craftsmanship with contemporary design, employing local female artisans to create handcrafted shoes that have caught the attention of prestigious retailers worldwide.
Key Lesson
Elevating traditional craftsmanship to luxury status while maintaining authentic cultural elements adds significant value and global market recognition.
© Zyne shoemaking process
Heritage is brand DNA : from Xhosa to the world
MAXHOSA Africa, founded by Laduma Ngxokolo in 2010, is deeply rooted in its celebration of Xhosa culture. The brand began with a vision to create modern knitwear inspired by traditional Xhosa beadwork patterns for amakrwala (Xhosa initiates). By reinterpreting these cultural elements into contemporary designs, MAXHOSA has created a unique aesthetic that resonates both locally and globally
Key Lesson
Embracing and innovating upon cultural heritage will create a powerful and distinctive brand identity. And a strong cultural foundation adaptable to market responses can lead to the creation of a globally recognized brand that celebrates African heritage
© Maxhosa first collection
Forging tradition into contemporary crafts with Maison Intègre
Maison Intègre's journey began with Ambre Jarno's personal collection, cultivated during her years in West Africa. What started as decorating her Ouagadougou apartment with Lobi scales and Senoufo stools gradually evolved into a workshop. When we met in 2016, I told her about the gallery that I was opening on Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris and we decided to collaborate for her inaugural presentation Odyssey which marked Maison Intègre's shift towards contemporary interpretations of tradition, exemplified by their reinvention of the Nupe stool with designers Charlotte Thon and Marc Boinet.
Based in Burkina Faso, Maison Intègre's workshop specializes in metalsmithing, celebrating West African craftsmanship. They create exquisite bronze furniture and objects using the ancestral lost-wax technique. By collaborating with international designers, they produce limited-edition pieces that seamlessly blend traditional African aesthetics with contemporary design.
The Ouagadougou workshop employs about fifteen multi-skilled artisans, providing stable employment and improving living conditions. Maison Intègre's mission extends beyond creation; it aims to elevate Burkinabe artisanship to global recognition while preserving the authenticity of their craft, bridging cultural heritage with modern design sensibilities.
Key Lesson
Bridging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design can create unique, globally appealing collectibles while supporting local artisans and preserving cultural heritage.
Maison Intègre 1st collection presentation at AKAA 2018
Transforming the Mundane through tradition and innovation with Cheick Diallo
Cheick Diallo's approach to design challenges conventional notions of luxury by transforming locally sourced, often discarded materials into exquisite, high-end pieces. This innovative methodology not only showcases his creativity but also addresses sustainability and economic empowerment in Africa.
In June 2024, Cheick Diallo led the Résidences d'artisanat d'art du design et de la création (RAADEC) program in Foumban, Cameroon. This innovative workshop brought together 25 artisans, 6 apprentices, and 6 students from Foumban and neighboring cities. The program aimed to transform traditional craftsmanship by blending ancestral techniques with contemporary design. Participants explored innovative approaches to pottery, wood carving, and foundry work, creating functional and artistic everyday objects. The workshop addressed the challenges of preserving local artisanal practices while adapting them to modern needs and aesthetics. It also sought to inspire a new generation of artisans by demonstrating that craftsmanship and design can be viable, innovative careers.
Key Lesson
Integrating traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design education can revitalize local artisanal practices and create sustainable career opportunities for young artisans.
Exhibition - Made in Foumban June 2024
Drawing from experience with these brands and initiatives, the key lessons above require a new approach to collaborative systems in Africa's creative economy: focus on specific challenges, leverage digital platforms for connection, foster cross-sector partnerships, prioritize skill development and innovation, and build sustainable ecosystems that support long-term growth and cultural exchange. - Read part 2